I was thrilled recently to join a group of hikers from Moi Teaching and Referral
Hospital (MTRH), Moi University , Ampath , Indiana University and researchers from University of Toronto who climbed Mt. Kenya
from February 28th to March 3 2014. Our goal was to raise awareness about cancer
and chronic diseases as well as funds for the new Chronic
Disease Care
Center in Eldoret , Kenya .
The hikers included the Deputy Governor for Uasin Gishu County
Daniel Chemno, Milton Arusei, Jennifer Hatchard, Jodi Bernstein, Jepchirchir
Kiplagat, Joseph Koech, Elyne Rotich, Eve Kweno, Raymond Kilimo, Dr. Naftali
Busakhala, Dr. Chite Asirwa, Liam Greven and me. The director of MTRH, Dr. John
Kibosia, the deputy director for finance Mr. Matthew
Birgen, his wife Miriam, and Selah Plapan, head of PR for MTRH, also joined the
team for part of the trek. Liam was the only experienced
climber on the hike and maybe the only one who had a real appreciation for how
cold and difficult the climb could be. All were enthused to support the
fundraiser and to succeed at “bagging” the second highest mountain in Africa !
The hikers were “ flagged off “ by the Governor of Uasin
Gishu, Jackson Mandago, on 27th February 2014 from the town hall in Eldoret. We
started our 7 hr. drive towards Nanyuki where
we would overnight before the climb up Mt. Kenya .The team arrived in Nanyuki and checked in at the Simba
Hotel. We met our guide, Shem Wambuko, at the hotel. After
checking in, the team headed to a nearby restaurant where Dr, Kibosia treated us
to a dinner. Although already tired from the long drive, the team was jolly and excited to get going on the climb. After dinner, the team retired and agreed to assemble at 7:30 in
the morning for breakfast and fitting of the mountain gear.
In the morning, after breakfast, members of the team picked
out their hiking boots, sleeping bags, walking sticks, heavy coats, gloves and
everything we would need for temperatures that would be well below zero degrees
Celsius on top of the mountain. It took
a bit of time for everyone to get the items that they required, but Shem got us
all set and then we were off, with a brief stop at the grocery store for last
minute items and snacks.
We were driven to the Sirimon gate, of Mt. Kenya National Park , to commence the climb. Shem
and his team of porters were already there
and while we were sorting out our gear they were taking care of getting a light
lunch ready as we had a 10km walk to our first overnight stop, Old Moses. It was great to have along the local dignitaries, who were encouraging
the team. From this perspective, Mt. Kenya
was readily visible and it became very clear that we had quite a hike and serious
climb ahead of us.
As we arrived at Old Moses camp, we were greeted by hot tea
and snacks by Shem’s cooks and we recognizing that we would be sleeping on bunks
in the cold with no running hot water, or
showers, or heat. The temperature had
already dropped quite a bit as we were now at 3500 m. Everyone quickly started
to put on warm clothes and bundle up. Many of the Kenyans had never experienced
such cold weather, or eaten a meal with hats and gloves on! A generator turned on the 3 light bulbs for a
while but it didn’t take too long before we were all off to bed and much needed
rest. For some it was a restful night, for
many however it was a night of waiting until morning came. The wind that
evening was very strong creating a cacophony of noise between the tin roof and
the howling. There were some snorers in
the group as well which made for an interesting night of no sleep for yours
truly!
We awoke at 6:00 am and by 6:30 am we were having a good, hot
breakfast provided by Shem’s cooks. At
7:00 am we began our 16 km trek to our next camp, Shipton’s. The trek to Shipton’s can only be described as
beautiful. We had excellent weather, saw a family of elephants and many
antelope on distant slopes. The hike is
a very steady uphill march through African heather and moorland. The sun was strong and the wind would come
and go depending on where you were. We were very lucky to have clear skies the
whole way up, as sometimes it can be quite cloudy and wet on this climb. Although the climbing was not easy, all the
climbers were making good time up the mountain. We were treated to a delicious
lunch next to a stream running from the mountaintop. The lunch powered us up for the next 4 hours of
trekking. Testing some kind of
outdoorsman theory of lunacy, Liam decided that this would be a good place to
wash up, in the ice cold water!
At the Peak! |
We began the
next 4 hours of trekking and they went
by smoothly, with climbers were chatting and connecting along the way, talking
about everything from local Uasin Guishu politics, to their work at AMPATH, the
beauty of Kenya ,
medicine, and photography. Arriving at Shipton’s, we were greeted by 3
green wooden buildings, a few other climbers and a clear indication that the
next day would be tough. Mt.
Kenya rose steeply in the distance and gave us all pause. We all
looked at it and wondered how in the world we would get up there!
Shem’s team had another wonderful meal of pasta with chicken
and sauce ready for us and we all heartily enjoyed it as
we were hungry and very cold. Even Jody
and Jen, our Canadian friends, were cold, so this tells you that it was
serious. There was lots of discussion
about the upcoming climb and the fact that we would all be getting there
together. It wasn’t too long before we
went to bed hoping for sleep as the alarm clocks were set to go off at 2:00 am
so that we could get up to the peak by sunrise. Sleep again eluded a number of
us…either because we were nervous, cold, the noise from the wind or the wonderful orchestra of
snorers!
At 2 am Dr. Busakhala saw to it that all were awake, whether
we were ready or not. We had tea and crisps at 2:30am and then up the mountain
at 3:00 so that we wouldn’t miss the sunrise.
As we began the last leg of the climb each of us
had to use a headlamp. Frankly when you
think about it this seems rather crazy, particularly given the 40 km winds and
the cold, but off we went nonetheless.
For nearly 4 hours we slowly made our way up the mountai in the dark. Our guides
were simply excellent, making sure that we moved at a safe pace, drank water
and that we were feeling ok. Feeling
good was not an option as you were feeling cold, your muscles ached and you
were concentrating on moving forward.
For those of us who struggled, the guides were there at each step to
encourage us as well as help us up the mountain. At this point we were already above 5000 m,
and the elevation caused even more of a challenge. Fortunately, again , the skies were clear and the sun rose spectacularly creating a breathtaking view! Some of us saw Mt. Kilimanjaro(in Tanzania)
in the distance and other mountain ranges as well. We were all thrilled and excited to have made
it to the top of Mt.
Kenya !
Although the climb up was tough, the climb down was simply
scary. The loose gravel had you
wondering if your footing was going to hold.
Again, Shem and his team did a great job helping team members down the
mountain side. It was inspiring to see
these perfect strangers develop a bond that was based on trust and safety. These guides knew the mountain and how to
move up and down it safely and they shared that knowledge with our group of
novice climbers. Many of the team
members had their hands held as they came down the mountain. This was serious
business as an error would prove at a minimum to be very painful. By 10 in the morning, we were all safely back
down the mountain and treated to a wonderful breakfast. That was the first part of a long day because
at 11:00am, we started our 16km trek back down to Old Moses.
The team had determined that warm showers and a reasonably
warm bed were the goal for the night so we skipped lunch and trekked on down to
Old Moses. It was another beautiful day
and the valley was breathtaking to walk through…..but nonetheless a very long
trek. By early evening we were all back at Old
Moses where Shem and team had another delicious meal ready for us, making the
long day worthwhile. We enjoyed the meal
and thanked Shem and his team, had another look at Mt. Kenya
and then made our way back to Nanyuki.
There we were greeted by warm showers, warm beds and a good night’s
sleep….. no wind…..and no snorers.
We all reflected on the correlation between climbing a
mountain and fighting cancer or other chronic disease. Our challenge was significant but it paled in
comparison to the challenge faced by those fighting cancer, heart conditions,
diabetes or other chronic diseases. We
can be thankful for our health and also be determined to help those who are
faced with difficulties day in and day out.
Mt. Kenya is a sacred place to many of the
Kenyan people. Having climbed that mountain we can all appreciate better why
this mountain is such a special place.