As an English speaking person you would think that living in
an English speaking country would be easy and there would be few communication
problems. Alas, we have learned the hard way that that is not true. Almost on a daily basis, even after 10 months
of living here, there are things that are said or done that I, for one, don’t
understand. Much of it is language related and certainly customs and culture
come into play. Depending on the import
of the situation, we are learning to react accordingly. When a miscommunication
has to do with adhering to medications for Julius, or an issue at Michael’s
project, we can get a bit frustrated.
We often are misunderstood, one has to assume, because of
our accent, although it amuses us since we find British accents a lot
harder to understand but they don't seem to have the same issues we have.
I guess it’s just the
cadence or timbre of our American accents. I have, many times, asked what seems
to me a simple question, like “are there any tomatoes today?” or “is Eldoret
your home?” and people just give me these blank stares like I’m from outer
space, or they just smile and say “fine” assuming I am asking them how they are. It could be that people don’t typically make small talk the
way Americans presume one must so the actual meaning of the questions get
lost. Often the response I get when
asking a simple question is just a laugh, or guffaw, which quickly makes me realize
that I have been misunderstood because I am not saying anything that
funny. The day I can make a joke that a
Kenyan will understand will be a red letter day!
One time I was visiting with my friend Esther, whom I am
pretty sure has not ever had an American for a friend, but who has been around
other non Kenyans. We were walking and having a conversation and she was listening intently
as I told her a brief anecdote . Suddenly she grabbed my hand and pulled me to
her, “my darling….there are things you say that I cannot understand. You must
speak more slowly.” She laughed gaily and I just secretly rolled my eyes
because this is how I feel about ½ the time!
Liam and I laugh as we often feel like we’re playing that game, “opposites
day” because it seems as if every request or question I have is answered with the opposite of what I meant .
Yesterday, in fact, I was at the market and made a little small talk with the
guy we buy vegetables from. He actually initiated it, asking, after greetings,
how the weather was when I was travelling. I said, ‘oh it was so hot!” in my
most expressive voice, and he responded, “so you were cold there?” I know this
guy understands my English so I was a bit confused by his response and looked
to Michael for clarification. He just shrugged his shoulders which is sometimes
all you can do! You might order red wine
in a restaurant and end up with a beer; you might ask for your pants to be
hemmed at the tailor and come back to find they’ve been taken in all around….
Not everyone has trouble with the American accent however. I
can always tell if someone has been working for AMPATH or some other
organization with a lot of Americans in it, because he/she tend to have no
issues with our accent. I have maybe two
friends who are so used to the American accent that they don’t hesitate ever
and never look at me as if I came from
outer space. They just continue on with the conversation which is somehow
comforting. My friend Miriam, who is quite a bit younger than I, and works at
Sally Test, tends to do a lot of
giggling when I am talking to her but I’m not sure if that is because of what
I’m saying or how , the fact that I am uproariously funny, or rather that she
is just a giggler. If she ever gives me that glazed look, which now I recognize
as incomprehension, I ask her, “do you understand what I’m saying?” and she
will answer me honestly. Michael uses their expression, “una elewa?” in order
to get a straight answer from his workers.Like most people Kenyans want to give the impression that they understand but sometimes they don't! It’s a bit like teaching ESL in the States
used to be.
There are also cultural
norms, like greetings, that are rigid here, which we don’t truly understand. We could never be confused with a true Kenyan,
no doubt, because we do such bizarre things, like walk our dog on a leash (you should
see the stares we get). Michael greets everyone he sees and I have been told that “we don’t do that”.
It’s not that people are not friendly, because they are, but being Hoosiers, we are
used to greeting or at least waving to everyone who comes across our path!
Although miscommunications can be frustrating and even humiliating, one
must always remember that everyone here speaks at least 2 and probably 3-5
languages ( there’s Kalejin, Nandi, Luo,
Luya, Hindi, and others in this region) , and English may not be one of them.
Any fluency beyond greetings in English is a sign of some level of education. Despite the recent legislation (10 yrs. old)
that all children must go to primary school and the language of instruction is in
English , there is a large segment of the population that has not had the
benefit of going to school. Sadly, it is not affordable for a lot of people despite the fact that it is mandated.
It is pretty obvious when someone does
not speak or has not learned much English, even on the street.
The cell phone is another interesting communication
phenomenon here. Everyone has a cell
phone but that does not seem to make communication any easier for yours truly.
In fact, I find the cell phone to be a block to my efforts to communicate
because I often can’t understand a word anyone who is not speaking American
English says on the phone. For one thing, they like to speak very loudly into
the phone. Between the poor quality of my phone, their volume, the reception,
and the accents, it is practically impossible. I have at least two friends that
I really like to connect with whom I cannot talk to on the phone. I have to
text them and always ask them to text me. I can’t tell
you how many times I have been on the phone listening with all my effort and
then finally say, “ok, text me please. Sawa sawa.” And get off the phone
thinking, “I have NO idea what she just said.” It’s crazy and has caused me a
fair # of communication headaches!
Then of course there is our effort to speak KiSwahili. If
you’ve ever learned another language you know that native speakers LOVE it when
you use their language. Of course the risk is that they will speak to you like
you are a native speaker and then you have to fake that you understand them…OR
you just make a lot of mistakes and don’t get your message across at all. This
happens quite frequently and sometimes it is no big deal. Sometimes you have to
find someone who can translate, like when it has to do with buying medicine or
paying a bill. Sometimes, you can just chat with someone in KiSwahili (at this
point we can do this) and THINK you have gotten your point across because they
will say “ Sawa sawa”, which means “it’s ok.” So you walk away satisfied that
you have made this connection and that you have been able to communicate whatever
it was you wanted to say.
Recently Michael
found a guy making baskets out in the country and they had a big
chat about his making some baskets for us to collect recycling at the hospital.
The entire time the guy (Joe Basket is what Michael calls him) was acting as if
he knew exactly what Michael wanted. Michael even drew him a picture and they talked dimensions, but the results were quite different than
what Michael had expected! We had a big laugh about that one.
Although I have not yet stopped getting blank stares usually
they are from strangers with whom I interact. The people we know well , now will either stop us while talking or are used to the way we talk. So we just keep shrugging our shoulders and laughing! Tu na Elewa Sana Sasa!
the perfect basket for all occassions |
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